The city of córdoba is more than 5000 years
old. The oldest evidence is transferred to chalcolithic, approximately 3000
years before christ. Córdoba has been capital in roman times and, later,
capital of al-andalus. It was a very important city in the visigothic era,
although it later became the capital of the emirate and capital of the
caliphate. All this mixture has left an impressive material and archeological
heritage that few cities in the western mediterranean have, except probably,
rome. 2000 years ago the first roman troops that arrived in the south of the
peninsula settled on the right bank of the river, which at that time was known
as betis. General claudio marcelo officially founded the city in the second
century bc, at the foot of a mountain rich in its minerals and surrounded by a
valuable countryside. The site was undoubtedly ideal for creating an authentic
roman cibis.
Soon "córduba", as the romans
called it, reached the title of colonia patricia, with two forums, important
temples, amphitheater, aqueduct and circus.
The betic province encompassed the entire territory
around the guadalquivir river and was the main oil producer in times of empire.
Down the river came ships of low draft that
were loaded with all the riches of sierra morena: minerals, metals of high
value, and, above all, oil and wine. His destination was the port of híspalis,
the current seville.
In 711, the visigoth kingdom was divided
between two candidates fighting for the title of king of the visigoths. In the
same year, troops of the umayyad caliphate, composed of arabs and berbers,
crossed the strait of gibraltar led by tariq, lieutenant of the governor of
north africa, who took several cities, from cádiz to toledo or zaragoza. From
716 the peninsula was directed from qurtuba, córdoba, by a governor appointed
by the caliph of damascus. The first governors apart from organizing the
islamic state and settling arab, syrian and especially berber immigrants,
carried out expeditions against the frankish kingdom. In the territory of
al-andalus, muslims respected the christian and jewish population in exchange
for a tribute, for belonging to one of the abrahamic religions, which gave them
a certain status. These circumstances motivated a policy of capitulation pacts
where many visigoth aristocrats were able to retain properties and even some
degree of power through new formulas. This fact, together with the fact that a
part of the population, unitary and hebrew christians above all, saw with good
eyes the new muslim power that freed them from the hard oppression that the
visigoths had exercised against them, could explain the speed of the moors to
conquer the area.
1) The Colt Square | Plaza del Potro
In one of the most popular squares in córdoba, a foal presides over the fountain. Since the fifteenth century there is written mention of this place as a sale of cattle. Here horses and mules were herded, and there was a source for animals to drink. Thus, at that time, the oldest hotel establishment in the city opened: la posada del potro. Cervantes himself stayed at the inn several times. “even the horses have their cathedral,” wrote federico garcía lorca surprised by the size of the building, the stables and the royal stables.
2) Royal Stables | Caballerizas Reales
Felipe II, a great
lover of horses, ordered the construction of the royal stables thinking that it
was the ideal place for the birth of a new lineage: the andalusian horse, pure
spanish race.
3) Tendillas Square | Plaza de Las Tendillas
On a magnificent
horse immortalized the cordoba sculptor mateo inurria to gonzalo fernández de
córdoba, the great captain, who went down in history for his participation in
the most important contests of the time. This monument is located in the plaza
de las tendillas, in the old esplanade that occupied the roman forum.
4) The Alcazar of the Catholic Monarchs | El Alcázar de los Reyes Católicos
In 1482, the catholic
monarchs moved the court to the alcazar during the siege campaign to the
kingdom of granada, the last islamic stronghold. And in the sixteenth century
king alfonso xi completed the construction, on the old caliphal palace, of the
new fortress in honor of alfonso x el sabio. The function of the alcazar was
clearly defensive, as well as a dignified palace and residence of kings. It was
here that christopher columbus was able to expose in detail to the advisors of
the monarchs the magnitude of his expedition to the indies, without knowing
that he would soon discover a new world.
5) The Gardens of the Alcázar | Jardines del Alcázar
To have a
relatively complete view of the gardens of the alcazar, one must go back to the
time of julio césar himself, who personally planted various floral species and
exotic trees, such as the eastern banana. This tree is characterized by giving
a wide shadow, so it would help to make the temperature of the gardens softer.
In the arab era, the ones we know today began to take place, they were located
in the southern area of the enclosure, occupying the most western areas. The
purpose of its layout was to complete the space for the royal harem, in the
closest place to the mudejar royal baths, finishing the final space with an
orchard. It is thought that the works could begin in the time of abd al-rahman
ii, specifically in the year 822.
6) The Roman Bridge of Córdoba | Puente Romano de Córdoba
The complex formed by the
roman bridge, the puerta del puente and the torre de la calahora was declared a
site of cultural interest in 1931. Since 1994, it has also been part of the
historic center of cordoba that was declared a world heritage site by unesco.
Also known as the old bridge, our roman bridge built in the 1st century b.c.
over the guadalquivir river, it was the only bridge that córdoba had for 20
centuries, until the construction of the san rafael bridge in the middle of the
20th century. The roman bridge, currently composed of 16 arches, although
originally 17 with a length of approximately 250 meters, was an important means
of entry to the city from the southern part of the iberian peninsula, as it is
the only point to cross the river without use any type of boat. The vía augusta
(the longest roman road in ancient hispania, with an approximate length of
1,500km that ran from the pyrenees to cádiz, bordering the mediterranean)
passed through it.
7) The Bridge Gate | Puerta del Puente
The current gate is
located in an enclave where roman gates were once located, as well as muslim
ones: bab al-qantara, bab al-wadi, bab al-yazira or bab al-sura. In roman times
it united the city with the roman bridge and the via augusta.
8) Cordoba Calahorra Tower | Torre de la Calahorra de Córdoba
At the southern
end of the bridge stands the calahorra tower, built in 1369 by enrique ii de
trastárama. It currently houses the living museum of al-andalus, an exhibition
that shows the splendor of the three cultures that lived in córdoba. From the
roof of the tower, we can enjoy the best views over the historic center of
cordoba, the mosque-cathedral and the guadalquivir river.
9) Roman Temple | Templo Romano
Architectural elements
had already been found in the area, such as column drums, capitals, etc., all
made of marble, so the area was known as the marmolejos. This area of córdoba
could be constituted between the 1st and 2nd centuries as the provincial forum
of the patricia colony, a title that the city received during the roman
domination. The material used was almost exclusively marble, from the columns
to the walls, through the roof and entablature. The quality of the marble and
the size of it tell us that its construction was carried out by craftsmen with
a very high qualification, placing the result at the level of the most
beautiful buildings in the empire.
10) Baths of the Califa | Baños del Califa
Next to the gardens
of the alcazar are the caliph baths, where its facilities allow us to get an
idea of how sophistication and luxury was in everyday life for over a
thousand years.
11) Corredera Square | Plaza de la Corredera
In the alcazar,
the hall that houses authentic jewels stands out, such as the roman mosaics
recovered after the remodeling of the corredera square. There are more than 80
squares in córdoba, and no two are the same. Toril street entered the bulls in
the plaza de la corredera. Since the 17th century, no bullfighting celebration
has been held here. The plaza de la corredera is the only one in andalusia that
has this large size, rectangular configuration and arcades.
12) The Mosque of Cordoba | La Mezquita de Córdoba
In the 8th century, on the
foundations of an ancient visigoth temple, the first emir of córdoba,
abderramán i, began the works of the mosque. They called him the "fugitive
prince", as he had arrived in cordoba after escaping the massacre suffered
by the heirs of the umayyad dynasty in syria. With this action, the emir would
lay the foundations to make cordoba the capital of western islam. The immense
prayer room of the mosque is a forest of 850 columns of marble, jasper and
granite on which 365 horseshoe shaped in two colors arches are supported. It
was the largest mosque of its time.
The two most important cities in the
mediterranean were cordoba, ruled by the umayyad caliphs, and constantinople of
the byzantine emperors. Both powers collaborated in cultural projects, one of
them being the decoration of the mihrab of the mosque, where the imam directed
the prayer and next to which the caliph site was located.
13) Bell Tower | Torre del Campanario
King fernando
third, upon entering córdoba, ordered that the mosque be consecrated and that a
cross be placed on the highest tower.
14) The Cathedral of Cordoba | Catedral de Córdoba
During the coming
centuries, the mosque was integrating christian elements of worship, such as
the side chapels, and finally, in the 16th century during the reign of carlos
v, the cathedral of santa maría de córdoba was raised inside.
15) The City of Medina Azahara | Ciudad de Medina Azahara
According to legend,
the construction of medina azahara has its origin in a great love. But the
official story suggests that the first independent caliph of damascus wanted to
show all the power of the caliphate, choosing an enclave on the outskirts of
cordoba and at the foot of the sierra morena to build its city and palace.
Medina azahara translates from arabic as "glowing city." the
architectural values of medina azahara are exceptional, as they allow us to
know the architecture of the caliphate. Medina azahara shone for just 70 years,
because after the fall of the caliphate and the establishment of the taifa
kingdoms, it was destroyed, sacked and abandoned. Currently the city can be
visited, and is being recovered and restored in the world heritage concession,
although only 115 hectares have been excavated, corresponding to 10% of the
size of the city.
16) The Jewish Quarter of Cordoba | El Barrio Judío de Córdoba
Between the 10th and 15th
centuries, it was the area where the jews who came to spain lived and that is
why it is called "judería". This authentic labyrinth of alleyways is
one of the most important places in córdoba, as tradition and the flavor of its
history still breathe.
Located to the northwest of the cathedral
mosque, the jewish quarter is one of the areas most visited by tourists, being
places such as the synagogue, the municipal souk, the house of sepharad or the
tiberiades square, among others. The tour of the jewish quarter practically
merges with the rest of the historic center of córdoba, one of the largest in
europe, declared in 1994 by unesco world heritage site. It is worth getting
carried away by craving the layout of its alleyways without looking at the map.
17) The House of the Heads | Casa de las Cabezas
According to the
romance, the muslim leader almanzor ordered gonzalo gustioz, count of lara, to
be locked in this house. The heads of the seven sons of the count who died in
the battlefields of soria, were hung in the seven arches of the alley next to the
house.
18) Maimonides. Physician and Philosopher | Maimónides
Near the jewish street
stands the sculpture of the famous doctor and thinker maimónides. We are in the
heart of the jewish quarter of córdoba. The jews, skilled merchants, carried
out financial activities and an important part were artisans. The jews did not
have their own architectural style, the layout of the streets of the jewish
quarter is typical of muslim urbanism, with narrow winding streets, like the
one we named below.
19) Alley of the Bonfire | Calleja de la Hoguera
The alley of the
bonfire leaves from céspedes street, a few steps from the cathedral mosque, and
reaches halfway to deanes street. With just two meters wide, it is a corner in
which there are widening and narrowing as well as changes of direction, typical
of arab urbanism. The entrance from céspedes street (formerly of the bajo
bajo), which is narrow, widens a few meters ahead. Then we cross an arch in its
middle part on which the minaret of the mosque of the andalusians rises, a
small quadrangular tower with open horseshoe arches on its sides and a
hemispherical dome topped by a yamur, five balls of decreasing size. The
mosque, which is accessed from this street, is created based on a small oratory
from the 10th century. It has a small access patio and the liwan or prayer
room, whose qibla faces south.
Crossed the arch, a small portico with
columns covered with coffered ceilings, connects with a small square with an
orange tree in its corner. This square has its exit through a narrow passage
(no more than two meters), also covered that opens to a new square, which gives
way to deanes street through a new narrow alley.
20) The Synagogue of Cordoba | Sinagoga de Córdoba
The cordoba synagogue is a
jewish temple located in the jewish street of the jewish quarter. Built in the
mudejar style, it is the only existing synagogue in andalusia and one of the
only three that are preserved in spain at that time. The synagogue plant in
cordoba, like other contemporary synagogues, was largely affected by the
restrictions of christian leaders. These limitations varied depending on the
location of the synagogue and whether the jews of the community in question
enjoyed privileged status. The size of the synagogue was to reflect its
humility and inferiority before the catholic church, although it depended on
nearby christian buildings in the area. To purify himself before the
ceremonies, the jew was completely submerged in the living waters of the miqvé,
where life annuls death. This source comes from an underground stream that
could have been a miqvé in the past. In this neighborhood the complaint and
subsequent detention for the inquisition of more than 200 jewish converts are
documented. They were accused of practicing judaism in their private life. It
should not be forgotten that the catholic monarchs had decreed in 1492 the
expulsion of the jews who refused to convert to christianity.
The progressive archaeological tastings
showed the appearance of a contemporary mikvé, a jewish bath of running water
in which the ablutions would take place, in addition to a talmudic school that
would turn the synagogue into a great religious complex. The remains have been
protected and a pedestrian walkway has been built, waiting for a larger project
for your visit.
21) Alley of the Handkerchief | Calleja del Pañuelo
This is the
narrowest street in córdoba, in its narrowest part only a small piece of cloth
could pass through, hence its name, although it is also said that here there
was a trade of precious fabrics and silks with such high prices that you could
only buy a small scrap or handkerchief.
22) Calleja de las Flores | Calleja de las Flores
The flowers
street and its surroundings, very close to the mosque, has always been one of
the busiest areas. The alleys remained open during the day and closed at dusk.
The streets of córdoba were like a great market.
23) The Wall of Cordoba | Muralla de Córdoba
Córdoba was a fully walled
city, and large walls of the remains of its fortification are still preserved.
The wall suffered multiple sieges for centuries.
24) The Gate of Almodóvar | Puerta de Almodóvar
TheAlmodóvar gate
is still intact, flanked by a sculpture of seneca that recalls that it was in
the roman era of the 1st century when that gate was opened. In the
mid-nineteenth century, the medieval walls and gates were demolished one by one
to expand the city and open roads that would facilitate traffic.
25) The Fernandine Churches | Iglesias Fernandinas
The longest siege
was that of fernando iii, king of castile and leon, getting into the city after
the surrender of the muslims in 1236, when christian temples began to be built
throughout the city, today known as the fernandine churches.
26) The Christ of the Lanterns | Cristo de los Faroles
The Christ of the Lanterns is a sculpture located in the city of córdoba and made in 1794 by the sculptor juan navarro león, being its promoter the franciscan capuchin fray diego josé de cádiz. Its name is due to the fact that it is illuminated by eight lanterns that surround it and give it its popular name.
27) The Palace of Viana | Palacio de Viana
In the city the great
houses and palaces proliferated, among them the viana palace, an emblematic
building in which five centuries of the history of córdoba can be contemplated
through its furniture and its magnificent gardens, 12 in total, among which
highlights the andalusí garden, dedicated to wellness with a variety of
aromatic and medicinal plants as well as exotic species from the most remote
corners of the world.
28) The Palace of Mercy | Palacio de la Merced
Near the plaza de colón we find this old mercedarian convent, current seat of the diputación de córdoba. It is a very unique building, representative example of the cordoba baroque. Built in two phases during the eighteenth century, it has a main church built in 1745 with excellent plasterboard and the best baroque altarpiece in cordoba. In its courtyards and rooms the palace hosts throughout the year interesting national and international exhibitions organized by the diputación de córdoba. But, although the palace building surprises with its baroque beauty, the true jewel of the construction is the church of la merced, which is located in the center of the old convent and serves as a dividing axis between the two cloisters that articulate the building.
29) The Cordovan Patios | Los Patios Cordobeses
Everyone in córdoba proudly
exhibits a way of living inherited from roman constructions, a life that is
done in community around beautiful courtyards cared for and maintained by the
neighbors themselves. Hanging or vertical gardens are more current. The
cordovan patios hold their annual contest to choose the best and most cared
for. In those days, homes are open to the public to proudly show their beauty.
This party is part of the intangible heritage of humanity.
